Toro CCR 2000 Snowblower: Mikuni Carb 38180 Clean

Toro CCR 2000 snowblower, Mikuni Carb 38180 diagram, 1995

Toro CCR 2000 snowblower, Mikuni Carb 38180 diagram, 1995

Raining, it is today and 14C, but my new-to-me Toro CCR 2000 snowblower, last winter, started once, sputtered and quit. I changed the plug but it did not restart, so I had to resort to my trusty Canadian Tire snowblower, which I do maintain. The Toro needs a carb clean, which I will do today.

The Toro CCR 2000 snowblower circa 1995 is much more famous than my Canadian Tire model # 318-180-515, 3-21″ model. There are diagrams and videos on the internet, but no one has really documented a good carb clean for the Mikuni 38180. Few tools are required, it is pretty easy and it should take you a leisurely 30 minutes. Here it goes:

-needle nose pliers: to remove the fuel line clamp
-sockets: 8mm, 10mm
-5mm hex wrench
-dofu container to catch dripping gas
-flat head screwdriver
-carb cleaner and fine nozzle

1. Cover Removal

I’ve done this a couple of times without issue. Remove the front cover screws, one on each side, 8mm. The front metal plate, which is behind the plastic cover, is attached to the machine near the handles, bolts one on each side, 10mm, Wiggle the cover up, watch the plastic ears on each side, then pass the plastic cover rearward between the handles. This exposes the carb. You should clearly see the float bowl in brass.

2. Remove Bits attached to the Carb

Disconnect the fuel line, which goes from the fuel tank to the carb. It is attached with a green spring clamp. Use the needle nose pliers to release the pressure, then slide the clamp down the tube, which will now remove quite easily. Drain any gas into the dofu container. As I drain my tank after every winter I had nothing to drain. Disconnect the other smaller black tube, which attaches to the primer pump on the front cover. Disconnect the choke wire, which is thick. The choke is the large black block of plastic visible from the rear of the engine cover.

3. Remove the Carb
Remove the 2 black carb bolts (1), hex 5 and a ‘u’ shaped metal cover or spit cup (2), facing outward. They are long and attach the carb to the engine body. Thanks, Mikuni, for making these bolts standard to the bicycle hex wrench! Disconnect the ‘z’ shaped throttle cable. There is a small spring that goes into the same hole as the throttle cable. You will need to turn the carb right and left to wiggle out of the ‘z’ wire. As you wiggle the carb gas might come out, so catch any in the dofu container. Your carb should be now free from the machine.

4. Disconnect the Float Bowl

Remove the large 14mm bolt (24) at the bottom of the float bowl. There is also a red metal washer (23) on the bolt. As you remove the float bowl (22) gas might leak out so catch any excess gas with the dofu container. Usually the inside of the float bowl is pretty filthy, so clean it out well.

5. Remove the Float

Turning the carb upside down you should see the beige plastic float (20). There will be a large metal tube, the main nozzle (19), in the center of the float, which holds the main jet (28). Remove the black plastic collar (27) from the main nozzle that stops the float from going too far, or it will fall out by itself.

There are three parts that are together, so don’t let them fall to the ground and get dirty. Holding the float (20) to the carb body is a pin hinge (17). When you remove the pin hinge, which simply slides out, not only will this release the torsion spring (18), but also the float seat (29), which simply slides into a groove in the float. Don’t drop the float seat, like I did, and don’t lose it or it’ll cost you $25.

6. Remove and Clean the Main Jet

Within the main nozzle (19), the long metal tube in the middle of the float, there is the main jet (19). You will need a flat head screwdriver to remove this. Gently remove this, as a replacement jet is $14. It takes 5 full turns. Clean this well by blowing carb cleaner into both ends. It is hollow. I also use the bristle hair of a plastic broom to get into the hold and scrub it. Do not use any metal wire as it might enlarge and cause the machine to run with too much gas. Blow it out and clean it well. Blow carb cleaner into the main nozzle as well, and ensure it is clean. Reinstall the main jet with 5 full turns, gently.

7. Reinstall the float assembly

This is the trickiest part. Slide the float seat (29) into the slot in the float (20). Lower the float into position, while ensuring the float seat goes into the proper float hole. At the same time position the float and torsion spring (18) so that you can then slide the pin hinge (17) into place. The long end of the torsion spring rests on the float bowl. You do not need any tools for this but it is a bit tricky to get all 3 parts aligned and pin hinge back into place.

8. Remove and clean the Jet

On the opposite side to the carb bowl is the Jet (8). It looks very similar to the Main Jet (28), uses a flat head screwdriver, and takes 5 full turns to remove. Gently remove it, as a replacement will cost you $13. The jet has a hole in the top and 3 holes on the sides of the tube. Blow carb cleaner into all these holes and ensure they are clean. With a little effort you should be able to look sideways and see light from one hole to another.

The end, near the 3 holes, has a tiny hole, as I found out! The first time I cleaned the carb the hole was not evident to me. The snow blower was surging and was difficult to start. The cause was this tiny hole at the end. Be very careful, as the hole is very small. I actually was able to use the end of the spring (18) to poke into this orfice. The diameter of the spring is very small. A single strand from a plastic broom head is just able to enter it. Clean it out with carb cleaner. Stick the plastic strand through the end hole and you should be able to see it through the 3 holes. I could not push the plastic strand through the whole length of the jet. After I thoroughly cleaned out this tiny orfice the snowblower started with the first pull and there was no surging. Hurray!

After you clean this last but important orfice, reinstall the jet with 5 full turns.

9. Reinstall the Float Bowl
The small screw (25) and washer (26) are on the same side as the pin hinge (17).

10. Reinstall the Carb

Reinstall the ‘z’ throttle wire and small spring. Then screw in the 2 main black 5mm bolts back into the engine body. If there are no residual parts you are good to go.

11. Reinstall the Plastic Cover
There are 2 10mm screws into the handlebars and 2 8mm screws for the plastic cover. Ensure that the side ears of the cover and tucked behind the front red cover.

Thar was not too hard, was it?

Toro CCR 2000 snowblower, Mikuni Carb 38180 diagram, 1995

Toro CCR 2000 snowblower, Mikuni Carb 38180 diagram, 1995

Diagram Numbers
1 black bolts, hex 5mm
2 metal spit cup
24 Float Bowl bolt, 14mm
23 Float bowl bolt washer
22 Float Bowl
20 Float
27 Spacer, black plastic, limits the float movement
17 Pin Hinge
18 torsion spring
29 Float Seat
19 Main Nozzle
28 Main Jet
8 Jet
25, 26 Float bowl small bolt and gasket

Addendum 2016 Dec 12: We had 15cm of snowfall last night. The temperature is rising above 0C to +2C but tonight it will go back down to -5C, and stay below a high of 0C for 5 days. This means that during the day today the snow will partially melt, followed by a 5 day solid freeze, turning the snow into a block of ice.

I rose early and did half the driveway by shovel, as to not wake the family and neighbours, but at 12:00 noon i gassed up the Toro and it was sweet. It started on the first pull and throws snow much farther than my Canadian Tire snowblower. There is a little bit of hesitation in the engine, a sort of pulsing, that I hope will go away when I use it more often. Otherwise I will clean it again in the summer. For now it works well and I’m happy that the carb clean was successful.

Addendum 2017 Feb 11: Snow blower starts but runs unevenly with low power, then dies. Then hard to start. Ripped apart the carb again, after missing the end port on the jet last time, but everything was clean. This time it was the spark plug, 19mm, with a bit of dirt on it. I cleaned it, installed it and the snow blower started right up. Went to the street that had some snow still and it threw the snow just fine. I hope this is the final “fix” or cleaning for this, but I’m getting good at ripping apart the carb.

Spark plug gap 0.032″

Addendum 2020 Oct 13: It is fall and there is no snow on the ground. In fact it is 18C outside! Last winter the snow blower was running rough, so I did a carb clean, after which it would not start. In fact I cleaned the carb and jet 3 times, replaced the plug, and it still would not run. Was it bad gas? This is odd, because this machine is pretty reliable. I had to use my neighbour’s snow blower all last winter. Damn. Today I decided to look at it one last time.

After I took the carb off for the nth time I checked the float was clear (it was, I can blow air into the gas inlet and the float would open and close properly. The prime inlet was clear, and the jets, including the main jet were all very clear.

Looking at the diagram and comparing it to my carb I realized that I put the float in upside down. The slanted side should face up! The grey plastic spacer under the float, the nose should point to the back, with the tab on top and not bottom. I buttoned it up, added gas and sure enough, it fired up on the first pull. Damn, life can be harsh. Live and learn. Next time print the diagram and assemble it correctly!

3 thoughts on “Toro CCR 2000 Snowblower: Mikuni Carb 38180 Clean

  1. Ramon Ayre

    Don Tai,

    Thanks for your detailed and excellent instructions! I cleaned the carb on my 1997 Toro CCR3000GTS Snowthrower and your instructions are EXACTLY what needs to be done…. perfect. Saved me approx. $150 in repair charges!

    – Ramon

    [Don: Thanks for stopping by. I hope you get your snowthrower working. These old Toros are supposed to be really great! Don.]

  2. Jim

    Thank You… Your write up was very helpful and I was able to repair our Toro blower. The main jet was partly plugged. Went ahead and cleaned the entire carb apart as you instructed. Works like a champ. Ours is about a 1993 and this was the first time it had ever failed us and been apart. Always run the gas out after each season.

    [Don: Hey Jim, I’m glad my post helped. It took me 3 tries before I finally found the last small orifice! At least I saved you some work! Last year, as I always do, I drained the gas and started it up until it ran out. This year added fuel and within a few pulls it started right up. Cheers! Don]

  3. Steve Morse

    I have owned a CCR2000 since the 90’s.The one I am working on worked great last year when I needed it.Now it is dripping gas from bottom of carb,also last year it dumped all gas on the ground once.I have replaced needle and seat $30, and new float $30.It is still dripping gas and after it starts it runs for a short time only,it is fouling plug because of the carb being over full of gas,it has never done this before.Thanks for pointing out how easy it is to put the float in upside down,seems like it would shut off gas better if upside down.I will take the carb off tomorrow to look at it better than on the snowblower.Also with my Mikuni carb to install new needle and seat,you have to pull out the sleeve that the needle rides in with an easy out tool.It is crome plated brass so tool will dig in but has to be just the rite size easy out not hitting bottom were the seat is before digging in to sides of sleeve.The seat is held in place by the sleeve.

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